It was nearly 20 years ago that I had made a trip deep into the Southern Pacific. There, I found many things and places to my liking. At one point, guided by an unseen hand, I stumbled upon an Island that resembled the Tropics, yet was cool and even a little chilly.
The place pumped with consistent surf.
One afternoon, I had chanced upon a bay that had some very good surf. There were a few people in the water and I cautiously made my way to the line up in hopes of a few waves.
The Surfers in the water were quiet but not unfriendly. I was allowed a few waves and appreciated the kindness of the local crew. Again, nobody said a word to me in the water. I was neither welcome or unwelcome...I was simply 'there.'
2 hours later, I had my fill. I left the water and went back to my van to dry off.
On the drive in, I had to navigate a 4 wheel drive type of road. There were large ruts and a lot of areas with soft sand. Driving down was easy, driving up added some real challenges. Half way up, I became stuck in a sand trap. I did what I could to try and get myself unstuck and had no luck at all. Ugh!
In time, another car came up the trail. I recognized the driver as one of the Surfers from the water. My immediate thought was not good. I imagined the driver and his 2 surfing passengers were going to be pretty sore about not being able to get around me.
L.B. got out along with Liam and Simmsy. I fully expected a growl from all of them as they were now forced to do something to get around me and the only thing they could do was to help me get out of the rut that I was stuck in. They had no other choice. I felt bad to put them in this spot but, there was little that I could do to change things now.
The 3 guys walked up to me, introduced themselves and took a look at what needed to be done. The next minute, with ropes fastened to my rear bumper, they used their car to pull me from the hole and allow me another try to make it past the trap. Lucky for us all, I made it out.
On the other end of the road, I got out and thanked them for the help. I had nothing to offer in the way of any reward and told them so. LB laughed and said it was all in a day's work. They said goodbye and sped off. I drove a little ways up the road and camped there for the night in hopes of more good surf the next day.
I got up the next morning to the sound of surf. Keeping the van at a safe distance from the 'pit', I saw the surf was still good. I also recognized LB's vehicle. I paddled out to the line up and said hello. We surfed together in some good conditions before the tide shut things down.
2 decades later, I still see LB and Liam. I was lucky to find some land nearby where they are and have really enjoyed spending as much time in the area as I can every year. Upon arrival, I am always stoked to paddle out and see some familiar faces. The surfing community there is very tight and it is nice to see such camaraderie between the people there. The tightness reminds me of my outside status, yet, I always feel like a welcome guest. I feel privileged to observe the lives of these folks and I am honored to call many of them friends.
Last winter, after a day of particularly good surf, I shot this photo of L.B. as he emerged from the water after another session of pumping surf.